Step One - Attach Upholstery Fabric scrap (preferred due to texture) to board that is prepped for hanging with Yes Paste. Gallery wrap the fabric.
Step two - do not prime the fabric. Work in a base of orange that is tinted in spots with yellow, unbleached titanium, and a hint of red to break up the "flatness" of the orange.
Step 3 - while doing step one and two - use mannequin arms as the plug for a mold. Apply first coat of liquid latex. Make sure you're in a ventilated place when this is done. Let each coat dry before applying another. Usually 4-5 coats do the trick.
Step 4 - when the last coat of latex is applied, reinforce the mold by dipping plaster gauze in latex and applying it to the outside.
Step 5 - when the gauze dries, remove the mold from the plug.
Step 6 - the end of the mold was open, so I cut a piece of cardboard and placed it onto the mold for each arm. This will (hopefully) keep the Polyester Clear Cast resin from leaking out the back end.
Step 7 - Get a cardboard box top - large enough for your molds to fit in. I used the top of an office depot office paper box. Get some sand, get the sand wet. You will use this wet sand to reinforce the mold so it will keep its shape. Put the molds in the box, and place the sand underneath so it supports the molds. Spray the molds with mold release.
Step 8 - You will mix the two parts of the resin according to the directions on the can. I used 8 ounces at a time. I measured it out with water, poured the water into a plastic cup, and marked it. I made a similar mark on the other cups I was going to use. I pour the resin into a cup, then add the proper amount of catalyst. I pour it into the mold, and adjust the box so it is level as it dries. I go ahead and mix a second batch. BTW, I'm wearing chemical gloves, a respirator, and glasses while all this is going on. I'm also outside when I pour resin.
Step 9 - add the other layers as the next layer dries until enough is built up for the desired aesthetic.
Step 10 - I found good looking plastic handcuffs at the Dollar Tree. I'm going to buy them while the resin is drying.
I'll stop here for tonight, as this is where the pictures stop. I'll post more photos of the process and add more to this description later.
Gourd Basket Step 1-Cut the gourd open and clean out all the gourd seeds and scrape the walls. I used a hacksaw blade to cut the top off. Step 2-Draw design on the gourd with a pencil. Step 3-Woodburn lines-this takes a good amount of time. Step 4-Add color-use sharpies, leather dye, markers, paint pens, etc. Step 5-Drill holes around top of gourd-spaced about 1" apart Step 6-Gather long leaf pine needles, strip off ends and weave around top using waxed linen. Step 7-Spray with clear sealant.
With respect to our "term paper", while researching my artist, George de Forest Brush, I had an opportunity to look at a number of American landscapes from the late 1800s, early 1900s. I decided to take the balance, harmony and dramatic depiction of nature - which was the focus in this particular collection of work - and communicate the same ideas but in a non-traditional way. I took some photos of the woods the mountains and chose some that offered examples of dramatic lighting. I sketched out the composition quickly in graphite, used crayon to create a color palette and make choices about lights and darks. I broke away from the color palette I used in my sketchbook after deciding I wanted to see more greens, blues, yellows and violets in my piece. I also realized after looking at my sketches that the piece was very geometric - a lot of angles. I am drawn to the work of Chagall and contemporary artist Brian Rutenburg, but my own work tends to be more rounded and curved. This is evident in the final piece. I mention all of this because my thought process is as important to my work as the physical process of planning and creating it.
process; first idid some sketches and picked the 1 I liked best. I then built a support to go under the clay out of carboard tubes 1x2 wooden strips and tape. All of this was covered with canvas to suport the clay but make it possible to slide the support out of the art piece at the appropriate time. I then began adding slabs of clay around the bottom of the support.
I posted a photo that is halfway through to the final art piece. In the piece. I began with a a black and red background that was scrapped on. I then add three black and white printouts of the same photos. I felt I wanted the piece to highlight time as an important thing, hence the clocks.
I am having trouble posting photos...I know, I know, we were given a step by step walk through..I'll get it. So for now picture a large plaster pillar that I am slowly chipping away at!
Step One - Attach Upholstery Fabric scrap (preferred due to texture) to board that is prepped for hanging with Yes Paste. Gallery wrap the fabric.
ReplyDeleteStep two - do not prime the fabric. Work in a base of orange that is tinted in spots with yellow, unbleached titanium, and a hint of red to break up the "flatness" of the orange.
Step 3 - while doing step one and two - use mannequin arms as the plug for a mold. Apply first coat of liquid latex. Make sure you're in a ventilated place when this is done. Let each coat dry before applying another. Usually 4-5 coats do the trick.
Step 4 - when the last coat of latex is applied, reinforce the mold by dipping plaster gauze in latex and applying it to the outside.
Step 5 - when the gauze dries, remove the mold from the plug.
Step 6 - the end of the mold was open, so I cut a piece of cardboard and placed it onto the mold for each arm. This will (hopefully) keep the Polyester Clear Cast resin from leaking out the back end.
Step 7 - Get a cardboard box top - large enough for your molds to fit in. I used the top of an office depot office paper box. Get some sand, get the sand wet. You will use this wet sand to reinforce the mold so it will keep its shape. Put the molds in the box, and place the sand underneath so it supports the molds. Spray the molds with mold release.
Step 8 - You will mix the two parts of the resin according to the directions on the can. I used 8 ounces at a time. I measured it out with water, poured the water into a plastic cup, and marked it. I made a similar mark on the other cups I was going to use. I pour the resin into a cup, then add the proper amount of catalyst. I pour it into the mold, and adjust the box so it is level as it dries. I go ahead and mix a second batch. BTW, I'm wearing chemical gloves, a respirator, and glasses while all this is going on. I'm also outside when I pour resin.
Step 9 - add the other layers as the next layer dries until enough is built up for the desired aesthetic.
Step 10 - I found good looking plastic handcuffs at the Dollar Tree. I'm going to buy them while the resin is drying.
I'll stop here for tonight, as this is where the pictures stop. I'll post more photos of the process and add more to this description later.
Gourd Basket
ReplyDeleteStep 1-Cut the gourd open and clean out all the gourd seeds and scrape the walls. I used a hacksaw blade to cut the top off.
Step 2-Draw design on the gourd with a pencil.
Step 3-Woodburn lines-this takes a good amount of time.
Step 4-Add color-use sharpies, leather dye, markers, paint pens, etc.
Step 5-Drill holes around top of gourd-spaced about 1" apart
Step 6-Gather long leaf pine needles, strip off ends and weave around top using waxed linen.
Step 7-Spray with clear sealant.
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteWith respect to our "term paper", while researching my artist, George de Forest Brush, I had an opportunity to look at a number of American landscapes from the late 1800s, early 1900s. I decided to take the balance, harmony and dramatic depiction of nature - which was the focus in this particular collection of work - and communicate the same ideas but in a non-traditional way. I took some photos of the woods the mountains and chose some that offered examples of dramatic lighting. I sketched out the composition quickly in graphite, used crayon to create a color palette and make choices about lights and darks. I broke away from the color palette I used in my sketchbook after deciding I wanted to see more greens, blues, yellows and violets in my piece. I also realized after looking at my sketches that the piece was very geometric - a lot of angles. I am drawn to the work of Chagall and contemporary artist Brian Rutenburg, but my own work tends to be more rounded and curved. This is evident in the final piece. I mention all of this because my thought process is as important to my work as the physical process of planning and creating it.
ReplyDeleteprocess; first idid some sketches and picked the 1 I liked best. I then built a support to go under the clay out of carboard tubes 1x2 wooden strips and tape. All of this was covered with canvas to suport the clay but make it possible to slide the support out of the art piece at the appropriate time. I then began adding slabs of clay around the bottom of the support.
ReplyDeleteI posted a photo that is halfway through to the final art piece. In the piece. I began with a a black and red background that was scrapped on. I then add three black and white printouts of the same photos. I felt I wanted the piece to highlight time as an important thing, hence the clocks.
ReplyDeleteI am having trouble posting photos...I know, I know, we were given a step by step walk through..I'll get it. So for now picture a large plaster pillar that I am slowly chipping away at!
ReplyDelete